Exquisite Alfred Philippe for TRIFARI enamel and pearl starfish pin, part of their Spring 1954'Tropical Fantasies' collection/series (other items included a seahorse and a butterfly). Features gold-flecked glossy lime green enamel with faux pearl glass cabochons and clear pave rhinestone accented layered, riveted coral. Measures 2 1/2" by 2 1/2".
Very good to excellent vintage condition. Described in the January 8, 1954 issue of'Womens Wear Daily' with the series name of'Tropical Fantasies'. Advertised for sale at The Blum Store in the'Philadelphia Inquirer' in April of 1954 - info. Courtesy of N&N's Trifari site.
Gustavo Trifari emigrated from Italy to the U. In 1904 and founded Trifari, NYC in 1910 after being a partner and jewelry designer with his uncle in Trifari & Trifari for several years. Gustavo's grandfather Luigi Trifari, a goldsmith, had a small workshop in Naples, Italy in the mid 1800s producing fine jewelry where Gustavo, working in his workshop, learned the jewelry trade.
In 1917, Leo Krussman joined the Trifari Company as a sales director and later became a partner, leading to the forming of the Trifari and Krussman Company. A third partner, Carl Fishel, an experienced and well known salesman also became a partner in the firm, in the early 1920s.
The company again changed its name to Trifari, Krussman & Fishel. The principal designers at Cartier, Jacqueau in Paris and Genaille in New York, managed to crystallize in their jewels the seemingly light airiness of delicate platinum workmanship with the floral themes that represent the fusion of Persian and Indian decorative motifs that define Mogul design. The stones they used in the pieces of this period were cut and engraved in naturalistic leaf, flower and berry shapes, seemingly attached to a pavé diamond stem, with diamonds inset into some of the "berries" as well as collet-set as accents. Known popularly as "fruit salad" and "tutti frutti, " these jewels reflect the pursuit of the exotic that so captivated the sophisticated European and American collectors of the 1920's and 1930's.