KTF TRIFARI'Alfred Philippe' Pave Enamel and Sapphire Baguettes Crab Clip/Pin

Alfred Philippe for KTF (TRIFARI) 1930's enamel, sapphire and pave crab clip/pin, inspired by the high-end jewelers such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. This beautiful crustaceon features open-backed, unfoiled sapphire blue baguette and clear pavé rhinestones. Black enamel accents to the claws and eyes.

Measures 1 3/4" by 1 1/2". Stonesetter's mark of'1'? Typical of early KTF markings. Mark (the stone setter's number) dates this to before Dec. Women's Wear Daily', June 25, 1937, page 9: Trifari'follows a Paris lead with a jeweled crab, the body made of three oblong emerald colored stones edged with rhinestones running down to the tips of its many claws which are enameled in black.

The pronged clip at the back makes it both clip and pin to be worn variously, including a lapel pin'. Courtesy of N&N's Trifari site. Very good vintage condition with the slightest enamel wear and a few darkening pave stones. Gustavo Trifari emigrated from Italy to the U. In 1904 and founded Trifari, NYC in 1910 after being a partner and jewelry designer with his uncle in Trifari & Trifari for several years.

Gustavo's grandfather Luigi Trifari, a goldsmith, had a small workshop in Naples, Italy in the mid 1800s producing fine jewelry where Gustavo, working in his workshop, learned the jewelry trade. In 1917, Leo Krussman joined the Trifari Company as a sales director and later became a partner, leading to the forming of the Trifari and Krussman Company. A third partner, Carl Fishel, an experienced and well known salesman also became a partner in the firm, in the early 1920s.

The company again changed its name to Trifari, Krussman & Fishel. The principal designers at Cartier, Jacqueau in Paris and Genaille in New York, managed to crystallize in their jewels the seemingly light airiness of delicate platinum workmanship with the floral themes that represent the fusion of Persian and Indian decorative motifs that define Mogul design. The stones they used in the pieces of this period were cut and engraved in naturalistic leaf, flower and berry shapes, seemingly attached to a pavé diamond stem, with diamonds inset into some of the "berries" as well as collet-set as accents. Known popularly as "fruit salad" and "tutti frutti, " these jewels reflect the pursuit of the exotic that so captivated the sophisticated European and American collectors of the 1920's and 1930's. This item is in the category "Jewelry & Watches\Vintage & Antique Jewelry\Brooches & Pins".

The seller is "jewelsandmore-6" and is located in this country: US. This item can be shipped worldwide.

Antique: No
Signed: Yes
Color: Multicolor
Main Stone Color: Blue
Material: Enamel
Year Manufactured: 1930-1939
Metal: Rhodium Plated
Jewelry Department: Fashion
Vintage: Yes
Main Stone: Rhinestone
Setting Style: Pavé
Brand: Trifari
Department: Unisex Adult
Type: Clip/Pin
Main Stone Shape: Baguette
Theme: Sea Life
Original/Reproduction: Original
Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
Handmade: Yes
Country of Origin: United States